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[Chicago Astronomer - Astro Joe]

C11 Modifications - Revisited a Year Later

May 2011

PART 1

The C11 SCT Beast sees a lot of action.

It's been a year since the last major dis-assembling of the SCT...

astronomer.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=ATM&thread=2760&page=1#12566

Transported across the Chicagoland area, we have attended to thousands of visitors since put to use in 2009. And that all takes a toll on performance and appearance. Looking at the Corrector Plate, it needs a cleaning just one year after the major cleaning project of last year...and there's a spider web inside the OTA.

Also, the exterior of the C11 and Tripod needs some attention. With nicks, dings and scrapes others have put on before I came into possession of it...I too have included my own scars of action.

Time for a make-over...and dramatic one.

This Mod will include installing two sets of crafted billet aluminum rings, dovetails, a temp gauge and new paint job.

I needed to wait till the warmer nights arrived, but this spring has been awful...not only for astronomy - with cold cloudy nights, but for any ATM projects. This week started out cold, but is ending up hot.

Time to start.

I bring the C11 OTA into the workshop and prep it to start the disassembly..but first some tunes....

Chicago Astronomer Joe is all updated with all the modern HI-FI systems...and selects an 8-Track...

I got a boat load of 8-Tracks from a dude who was getting rid of his stuff and haven't heard most of them. I select "America"...and we start.

I had noticed near the end of last observing season that the Corrector Plate looked dull...and indeed - had become grimy...

Not only is the grime "greasy", but we spot the Spider web that has been obstructing light from stars billions of light years away. Let's explore this grime...

The C11 is out in the open a lot - parks and the lakefront mostly, I assume that it collects airborne detritus ... from picnics, vehicles, Adler exhaust vents...and from smokers - Cigarettes, cigars, pipes...it all got to go somewhere. And considering I cap the C11 after each use and keep it bagged while she's sleeping, it's not something that is collecting when not in use.

- No Smoking signs will be put up for Chicago Astronomer sessions.

We continue....

Taking off the retainer ring...

We check around the edge of the C.P. and find no chips or cracks, but a potential situation was discovered...

Two of the cork spacers were missing and the glass C.P was resting bare onto the ring collar and retaining ring. Space on top, contact on the bottom.

Not cool...


Removing the C.P., we take a quick examination of the secondary, and other than flecks and dust, (mostly from the C11 foam packaging), it's not bad...

We will clean the optical drive train later, so for now, I pack it away in a trash bag and a clean pizza box I get from a friend...

With the C.P. removed, I get to see the Spider web closely....

The arachnid spun it's little web from the top inside of the OTA to the secondary housing.


I remove the JMI focuser from the visual back...

...And the Primary focusing assembly. A cinch from last year's project...

I needed to remove the "Speed Rails" I installed along both sides of the OTA in order to remove the collar. (The Speed Rails are a great mod to the C11. I can control the OTA securely with gloves in the winter and guide the scope easier than the old clunky way of nudging the tube. They also are indispensable for carrying and heaving the 24 lb tube up to the mount. All SCTs should have them installed as standard equipment.)

With the rails off, we remove the front collar..

It's pretty banged up. With paint chipped off, glue and other gunk, it's time to give it a fresh coat and bring it back to decent appearances.

Reaching in, I pull off the snap C-ring on the baffle and remove the heavy primary mirror...

Giving it a quick once over, it's not in bad shape. Minor cleaning is called for, but for now, I put it away for later...

The flocking I installed a year ago is holding up very well and the adhesive solidly strong. I use some tape to try and find the little spider that spun a web in my scope....

But all I find is a winged creature...long dead. and snuck in through the visual back opening...probably while breaking down the site after an observation.

Plug your ports quick kids...!

I had just intended to install the rings, dovetails, temp gauge and paint the front collar...but things have a way of dominoing and we go for total breakdown and separate all C11 parts from each other.

More in part 2......

[Chicago Astronomer - Astro Joe]

C11 Modifications - Revisited a Year Later

May 2011

- PART 2 -

The main reason for taking the C11 apart, was to install these...

Ain't they cool...?

They are original Rick Marzecs - a Chicago Astronomer fan and supporter who is an accomplished astronomer himself and metal crafter. He enjoys undertaking ATM projects and made me these two sweet finder scope rings.

The larger ones will be for the 90mm Guide Scope and the smaller will be for the widefield 60mm finderscope...both attached to the C11.

The entire story from it's late fall beginnings can be found here:

astronomer.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=Equipment&action=display&thread=2963

The second smaller set of rings will be attended to first...

The Meade 60mm Widefield finder has been great in the years I have used it, ever since it was attached to the 4.5" Reflector and then on the C11. I made a wooden dovetail for it and attached it to the rear cell...

It worked well, but being made from pine, it lost it's tight seating and the finderscope became loose. But, it still was useful, although attaching a camera to it was now out.


Rick, made me the larger rings first, but provided me with a pictorial of the making of the engraved rings...















There are two short vids that go along with it, but I need to process them...soon. I appreciate Rick's gifts and craftsmanship in building these rings for the Chicago Astronomer... ;D

They will look so cool on the C11 when this project is completed!

It has crossed my mind about the added weight of the rings, 90mm tube and other accessories on the mount and drives. So I weigh them...

Large rings and bases = about 1.25lbs

Smaller rings and base = A little over 1/2 lb.

Combining the 90mm all plastic tube and other incidentals: We get close to 7.5 lbs.

Hmmmm.

We continue...

The 90mm ring base will replace the wooden one I made, but the holes do not match...

I can always drill new ones and is a small job. I'll wait until after I paint the rear cell - so I move on to the bases for the larger rings...

I have plenty of room on the rear cell, but up front, on the collar, I run into an obstacle...

The collar ring holding the Corrector Plate is in the way in any configuration...and if I push it forward, then the OTA cap cannot slide in place. I though about notching the dust cap, but choose against it.

So, the forward ring base will attach to the tube itself...

It's vital to align the two bases to each other and the OTA - to minimize the parallax adjustments and keep then 90mm as best centered in the rings as possible. One measurement said it was equal, but eyeballin' it said otherwise and I was getting frustrated. I noticed that there were two screws equidistant and placed uniformly on the OTA. I used these to caliper the proper distance...

And along with a Square, get my positions on both ends of the tube.

I drill a new hole, but reuse an old one..

The screws want to be 5/32nds, but are a bit too long - remembering that the primary mirror rides backs there. A cut on the vise on both screws make it good...

I slip a nut on the screw and re-slide the Primary back in place...and observe good clearance. It just needs some cleaning up and ready to go.

I want that new drill hole tapped, for a better grip, but my Tap & Dies are behind the Chevelle in the garage and the car cannot be moved presently....so I do a poor man's tap...

Using a screw to slowly create new threads. Works...but oh so slow. I do not install the bases as of yet, as the new paint job is soon at hand, but should I tape and mask the tube from the rear cell....or just take apart EVERYTHING...?

If you are going to do it...do it 100%. So it all comes apart...kinda scary really...

And so now...all about me are parts of my C11...in all it's individual pieces.

The exterior of the tube is in rough shape. Scratched and rough in places...it needs a new look...

I remove the "Celestron" lettering, in case I desire to reuse them again...

The tube also has two lanes of very tough adhesive - from the industrial Velcro I used for the Extended Dew Shield. I places solvent on the glue to soften it up...

It's day two and completion seems so far away.....

Next painting.....

[patrickm]

Joe, you are a terrific nerd.

[Chicago Astronomer - Astro Joe]

C11 Modifications - Revisited a Year Later

May 2011

- PART 3 -

With parts all apart and scattered throughout the workshop, I guess it's time to paint. I like this "Hammered Texture" paint Rustolem makes. Testing it out on the Tripod legs, I like the way it looks and feels. It has a certain gloss to it too, so no need for top clear coat.

I take the Rear cell, Front collar and Dust Cap to the garage and prep the pieces....

Everything gets a rub down with cleaner and degreaser - and the parts are very dirty. I clean them several times until all the grime is off.

I mix the paint with Xytol and adjust the compressor to about 45 psi.

I start on the Dust cap first...

If I make a mistake, well...it's just a dust cap. I decide to paint all three pieces the Hammer black, (more like grey), and it looks good....

NOTE: There's a reason I shoved two oversized screws into the dust cap...more later.

Satisfied with the paint lay, I move to the front collar...

Sprays on very well and I give it about four coats and do the rear cell in-between coats...

Before I mixed the paint, I masked off the hardware and baffle...

I leave the Velcro strip on the cell for the JMI focuser that I will re-install - so no need to remove it. My years working on the Chevelle comes in handy, as I lay expert thin coats of paint on the business end of the C11 mirror holder...

I go back and forth between the three pieces and used a antique heat gun to "bake" on the goodness.

Looks good....

Looking at the Dust Cap again...It seemed a bit overpowering for the Front Collar and the cap being the same color...a bit heavy visually....so I dusted the cap with Rustolium Hammer Silver...

It has a rough texture and I think I like it that way. The paint job came out well and time will tell if it'll hold up to service usage.

But, you may ask...where's the OTA..?

I thought about painting the tube, as I do have paint left over from the paint job on the Chevelle, but I thought of another approach and more uniquely whimsical. And one that I can change, depending on mood and occasion.

That in part 4....

[atomant]

Hey Joe
A great page turner.
Can't wait to see your approach to the OTA tube.

[Chicago Astronomer - Astro Joe]

Bill,

I'm going two ways with the tube.

I have painted it and also...a wrap.

Pics coming up on that.

But....

When I put the C11 all back together, I'll need your expert help with the collimation procedure.

My arms just ain't long enough!

[patrickm]

The suspense is killing us!

[Chicago Astronomer - Astro Joe]

C11 Modifications - Revisited a Year Later

May 2011

- PART 4 -

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With the Rear cell, front collar and dust cap painted, it was now time to devote some attention to the OTA. Some would say why bother, a dinged up tube is as good as a shiny one. This is true and a certain amount of "wear" gives scopes character and a history. But the C11 is as much a public instrument as it is a private scope of the Chicago Astronomer.....and needs to put on her best face, looking sharp, impressive and presentable at our star parties.

And...I want it all clean and shiny... ;D

I had thought about just painting the tube, perhaps with the Hammer Paint texture, or maybe with the Blue metallic paint I used on the Chevelle that I still have...but I wanted something different....

I'm going to wrap it...!

In my neighborhood, is a huge fabric warehouse with thousands and thousands of material bolts of all makes and patterns. I wanted a "leather-like" look for the tube. The logic behind this, is that not only can I just swap it out when it gets damaged...but I can change wraps with mood, occasion or whim. From black to blue to Mellow Yellow to white...and in an instant.

First, I cleaned off that horrible Velcro adhesive from the tube and wiped it down...

With the surface now free of debris, I can see all the scratches and nicks the tube has and glad that I will no longer see this. I then measure off a section of the material...

I had to use the floor as a worktable, as the work bench wasn't wide enough to measure and cut. I needed to make an alteration in the measurement, as I want the material to "overlap" and self-secure with a Velcro strip...

I wrap the black leather-like material around the tube and I get a good fit...and looks sharp. Reminds me of those pocket pirate collapsible scopes bound in leather... . But now, I need to attach two Velcro strips to the edges...

This sewing machine is temperamental and sometimes it works....most times it does not. After some fiddling around with the thread tension it finally worked well and I commence to sewing...

Without a complaint, the machine does the job well and I secure one Velcro strip nicely, but it knows that it is doing too good of a job and starts to act up on the second half of the job. Some of the hook loops on the backside of the sew is not as tight, but it's holding the strip well. I'll take a sledgehammer to it if it keeps this up...

I wrap the material around the OTA and secure the two ends tightly...and it makes me smile....

I like the texture - and it looks neat, sharp and formal...almost like a Tuxedo...

I think that this extra effort is worth it. It is certainly different from any working telescope I have seen anywhere and I will enjoy the ability to change the look of the C11 Beast...and eventually include the Chicago Astronomer logo as part of it.




But...........

Under that nice looking material...is still a dinged up and scratched tube...and it bothers me....

I even went and re-installed the rear cell to the tube, hoping that it would prompt me to start the job of putting everything back together finally...

...but no... it just didn't feel right. Having resurfaced every other part and leaving the tube this way, (even if it's covered), just ain't right....and a lie!


And so in part 5....Painting the tube.

[Chicago Astronomer - Astro Joe]

C11 Modifications - Revisited a Year Later

May 2011

- PART 5 -

Before the next phase of painting the OTA, I went back to the Dust Cap...the one where I punched two holes into before painting it. I used the oversized screws in the holes to act as handles whilst air spraying it, but the holes were for a grab handle...

Now, how many astronomers really enjoy taking their gloves off in the dead of winter to use their finger tips against freezing metal and try to pry off the dust caps to their scopes...?

Not me...and those days are gone...

Handles matching the ones at the rear of the C11, it's now a simple logical matter of grab off with gloved hand.

I also weighed the rear cell without mirror...

8.5 lbs


Grabbing the metal flocked OTA to the garage, I contemplated again if I should paint it or just be content with covering it with the material and be done with it. Proper painting is a long prep process and the cleaning after wards of the tools. I really didn't want to do it and wasn't in the mood....but having the tube all marred up bothered me more. So we start....

-------

I use a Lazy Susan to help spin and obtain even coverage with the spray tools....

And mask the tube...

I will use acrylic paint for this job, the same as I used for the Chevelle...but this kinda paint needs a lot of prep and materials...

I mix the paint, reducer and hardener, setting aside the clear coat for a bit. (Also...to the right - is my new folding Astro Accessory Table I got at Aldi for under $20.00. It's the same I have used before, but have no idea where it's at now.... )

I use the smaller air brush to lay on the paint and it goes on well..

It's not bad and has some depth, but...it's too dark for me. Yea, I'm gonna be covering it anyway, but I want it lighter. The only way to get this paint lighter is to shoot it over a light primer....but I don't want to go through the hassle of shooting primer, sanding and then the color coat.

What if I shoot the Grey Rustolium Hammer paint....and then the color coat on top? Now, there are two different solvents here at work - Xytol and Reducer....and I don't know what the reactions will be.

(Last year, I shot the Chevelle blue on a 62.5mm finder scope and then shot clear coat over it before it dried...with great ripple results. I hoping for something like this here.)

So, I shoot about 3 oz of the Grey onto the tube....and now looks like a can of cabbage... For the color coat, I use the bigger spray gun for better uniform coverage...

And it came out....ok...

With the hardener in the mix, it started to thicken and I got some splatter...and there was some reaction between the two solvents, but the results were not objectionable. I shot a clear coat on top of that, but did not get the ripple results as before.

It's ok.

If I were to just have the painted tube exposed, I would have taken the time to prep it right, (primer coat, pin hole filling, sanding etc...), but this is good enough.

And now, I will cover it.

Go figure....

Next....Part 6 - The Re-assembly and mounting of the finder scope rings.

[-=CROMAN=-]

You are one bad assed mofo!

[patrickm]

If you ever see me attempting something similar, it will be a sign that I am off my medication and in need of immediate medical attention.

[Chicago Astronomer - Astro Joe]

.........Alright, the project is on a 24 hour hold now.

After much consideration, I'm upgrading the grease for the primary mirror baffle travel...

Much has been said about Dow Corning's High Vacuum Grease....and since the C11 is all apart now, why settle for inferior lubricants putting it all back together?

The DCHVG keeps it's viscosity in temp extremes, from freezing cold to blistering heat. Heat especially is dangerous, as lesser lubricants can thin and run to places sacred. We certainly do not want any of the grease to travel anywhere else but where I intend for it to be. Keeping scopes in hot cars and garages have done damage to many a scope I understand. And also, it does not outgas...keeping the optical surfaces clear of any potential harmful particulates. Very important.

Astronomers who rebuilt their telescopes rave about this lubricant, removing the factory grease from their parts and replacing it with this. Not just for the optical train, but for any moving part of the telescope mount. There are some who feel that it's no better than any other grease, but I'm sold.

In my last major C11 project a year ago, I used wheel bearing grease...

astronomer.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=ATM&action=display&thread=2760

I must say that it did it's job well, I did not find any grease anywhere but where I put it. There is a slight film on the Corrector Plate, but I don't know if it's from the grease. With the Dow Corning, we can eliminate this possibility.

Also....SCT's suffer from "Mirror Flop", when focusing the large heavy mirror with the crude main focuser - the mirror "Tilts" every so slightly - resighting the desired object in a different part of the FOV or even out of it! Very annoying under high power and I use the JMI motorized focuser to side-step this situation when I need crucial focus. The Dow Corning grease is supposed to remain stiff and hold it's integrity - keeping the mirror sliding parallel on the baffle as close as possible.

Again, after reading reviews over the past two years, I'm sold.

Looked around and seems that the cheapest I could get it was for $36.00 with shipping. Ok, I can do that, but also was the wait for delivery. Having the C11 all dissembled is not cool and I'm antsy to bring it all together...before I forget where things go...

Checking over the Dow Corning site, (the layout reminds me of the 1960's), I find several distributors in the big city and call one of them.

$17.34

I can either pick it up in a close suburb now...or wait till tomorrow morning. With the price of gasoline now...I'll wait. And it's pretty close too. I have driven passed this place numerous times on my adventures around Chicago's Maxwell street market...and not too far from the Adler.

Yep, we will be sliding with the big boys now...


( Here is a nice website on a guy who dismantled his C11 that had some play in it:

astroshed.com/observatory/c11saga/c11saga.htm )

[Chicago Astronomer - Astro Joe]

C11 Modifications - Revisited a Year Later

May 2011

- PART 6 -

Flocking the Baffle -


I had practically no time this day/night to work on the C11, but after 10:00 pm, started to put the beast back together...at least what I could until I get the Dow Corning High Vacuum Lube. Bringing the tube back into the workshop from the garage, the paint was dry and ready to work on. (If I had the time, I would shoot another coat of clear on the OTA for a great finish...but I'm anxious to get this back together...and we do have a Chicago Park District session to work soon.)

Last year, I had contemplated on flocking the internal baffle tube, but elected not to just because I didn't feel like it. Others who followed along with the project said that I should have, considering that I had it apart and the OTA was flocked. This time, with the entire scope apart, it was easier to get to the baffle...and we go for it.

Celestron ridges their baffles on the inside...I assume to break the reflections and bounce them about. But, it's still pretty bright in there. measuring along the tube...it's a remarkable...11 inches!

I have plenty of the stiff backed material that I use for flocking. Not that I have used it, but it seems to be better than the paper-like flocking sold for this purpose. I measure off a piece and use tape to clean it off...

I slip it in the baffle...and it's a good fit...

Looking down the tube....yea...it's pretty dark in there...

The edges of the flocking material press against each other along the seam and hope it keeps the material pressed along the inside diameter of the baffle. But the outside edges needed some spray adhesive help to keep them down...

I dig it....

I think it's important for urban astronomy - to cut down as much light pollution reflections as possible within the scope - and the flocking I did last year increased the contrast nicely from the factory state that I got it. Now,almost every light path surface from Corrector Plate to the eye...is flocked.

The internal diameter of the baffle is reduced by millimeters...and I don't think it will effect the FOV or imaging...and I think the benefit outweighs any reduction.

Next....attaching the large ring bases in part 7....

[Chicago Astronomer - Astro Joe]

C11 Modifications - Revisited a Year Later

May 2011

- PART 8 -

Attaching the Large Guide Scope Ring bases -

Time to start attaching the bases for the 90mm refractor guide scope rings...

I installed the bases slightly to the left of top center, because it looks good there...and because....there was already a hole top side to secure the rear cell mounted one...

One screw tapped nicely into the already made screw hole, but the other fought me something awful...and because I always win, we use a lock washer and nut to tighten the base down...

But a bit of the screw was sitting proud of the nut and I rasped it down with a rotary tool...

Anxious to see how the beautiful rings will look on the tube, I install them...

Too sweet!

I wanted to install the 90mm refractor in the rings now, but I have to take it apart, as the focuser and objective are too big to fit through.

I studied the OTA for placements of the other accessories:

The 60mm widefield finder scope engraved rings...

the laser holder...

... and the 9x35 stock finder scope.


I did this for a long time, trying to use already drilled and tapped holes on the rear cell and at the same time keep things aesthetically balanced.

It did occur to me that the mount also plays a part in the placements off the accessories. I recall when I installed the laser holder, that any lower than where I placed it, would bump into the polar scope. so...I drag the heavy & bulky Losmandy mount from the garage to the workshop and mount the tube...

I'm digging this shade of Blue bunches for the beast - Chevelle Blue. And again, I wish I had more time to have done a better job with the paint job with more color coats and clear finish. It does have a nice textured feel to it from the Rustolium Hammered Paint underneath the color coat.

I spent about an hour with various placements of the accessories along the rear cell and have a good idea where they want to be. Too sleepy for that now.

But, that will be the next phase of this project in Part 9

(Gettin' closer! #Yay# #)

[Paulie pchris00]

It's looking good!

[-=CROMAN=-]

Yeah... pretty slick

[tomlee]

You know I have been following all the way, right? Good showing and it's motivating. Too bad I don't have a dinged up scope or scope at all.

[Chicago Astronomer - Astro Joe]

It's like the project that never ends.

But, I hope the effort is worth, which I feel it will.

And now...back to the beast for a couple of hours this afternoon and perhaps secure the 60mm rings.

[patrickm]

I am told "Mr. Leatherman" competition was recently in town. Is that a leftover you used for wrap? Watch for shrinkage in humidity!

[patrickm]

And in all seriousness, what's the max load for your GEM? You have to be approaching it.

[Chicago Astronomer - Astro Joe]

Patrick,

I will organize a "All Leather Chaps" observation session for you - when it gets real steamy like outside.

The max weight capability of the Losmandy Ci-700 is 60 lbs...so I'm cool so far.

[patrickm]

What will be your new total weight with new rings, guide scope, pleather, laser, and gumdrop machine attached?

[Chicago Astronomer - Astro Joe]

C11 Modifications - Revisited a Year Later

June 2011

- PART 9 -

Finally....the C11 beast is getting back together.

A day's delay was had for the Dow Coirning High Vacuum Grease I wanted to try out - and luckily a distributor was very close by and cheaper than anywhere else...

It's a sizable tube, with plenty left over for other projects.

In prep for the re-installation of the primary mirror, I sticky tape the interior to pick up debris from this project. A lot of metal shavings were hidden in the nap of the flocking, but it looks like I got the majority out...

And I needed to install the speed rail grab bars before I slipped the primary in...

...and had to remove the dovetail and front collar again, before the mirror goes in....

I examine the mirror, and it isn't too bad, but there are some problems...

It's very dusty and there are a couple of unknown smudges...

I think this is where the tiny spider threw up on my mirror.

I blow off the mirror with the Giotto bulb blower and use both Q-tips and cotton balls to lightly clean the mirror. I used some of the cleaner I made from last years project, but used my breath mostly. The splotches are removed, but there are some contaminants on another part of the mirror. I try to remove them, but it wants me to apply pressure and I quit. It isn't all that much of a deal and I leave it.

Lightly going over the mirror with many cotton balls, haze is lifted and it looks good. for good or bad, it's done and let's see how it performs when it's all back together.


I take the opportunity to remove the old wheel bearing grease from last year and coat the mirror baffle with the Dow Corning...

I use my bare hand to apply the grease for better control and feel...

The grease is very thick and get's stiffer when applied to the surfaces. It has no smell nor that funny feel that silicones does. The clearance between the baffle surfaces is just millimeters and all it takes is a light coating.

Utmost care was taken not to accidentally get some on the mirror.

I clean my hands with the 99% alcohol and with one more cleaning and slip the mirror back home. Immediately, I feel a difference. The mirror does not slide back easily. It feels solid and slowly glides back with some effort in pushing. I use no gloves here, as I don't want my hands to slip - and use both hands to push it back - where it seats firmly...

The inside and outside surfaces of the baffles compress the grease into a nice uniform sheen...almost like a glacier effect.

Checking along the slides all nuts and bolts clear the mirrors edge ok...but the temp sensor comes uncomfortably close...

I can adjust or relocate this sensor...but don't know yet what I'll do.

But, it all looks good and things go back together...

This was an all night effort in this phase - always takes longer to put it back together than to tear it apart ...but I like how it's coming back to service...

Next - The Corrector plate in Part 10...

[Chicago Astronomer - Astro Joe]

C11 Modifications - Revisited a Year Later

June 2011

- PART 10 -

With the majority of the C11 back together now, time to clean the Corrector Plate...which is quite dirty. I still have the cleaning materials and solvents from last year at hand and ready to go.

Pec pads, cotton balls, POR cleaner and the solvent mixture to remove that layer of greasy-like residue on the outside....

The inside of the plate had a slight haze. Others would have just left it and wouldn't have effected the view, but let's clean both sides well. Using plenty of cotton balls, the haze comes off easily, but the the greasy film takes a lot more time and effort..

Cleaning around, I come across my graffiti on the edge of the plate I scribed last year...

The secondary was dusty but in decent condition. Blowing off most of the debris left a few that specks that remained. With a Q-tip, I roll off the specks and in no time, the secondary is ready to go...

The solvents work well, but for the final wipes, it's just breath fogged on the plate and buffed that finishes the job.

With the corrector ready, time to plop it in place in the cell, but when I removed the plate at the start of this project, I noticed that a couple of the cork spacers along the edge were missing and the glass was resting on the metal. A frightful accident waiting to happen.

I had a bunch of these layin' around...

Pleather-like material, they will make for great isolator spacers. I cut them into strips and place them all along side - 8 of them...

They fit in perfectly, keeping the plate centered and cushioned...
I attempt to slide the plate around, but it stays firmly in-place. The secondary spins too easily though and I will certainly need a gross collimation when ready.

I place the retaining ring on, snugging the the screws.....and we are done!

Some minor tweaks to do, but Finally.....all back together and ready to share and explore the cosmos again.

Epilogue in Part 11....

[patrickm]

Congrats, Mr. Fixit!

Attachments:

[tomlee]

Don't know what to say!! #Thumbsup#

Are you selling it? ;D

Thought you would put the "skin" around it!

[Chicago Astronomer - Astro Joe]

Thanks kids...!

Let's just see how well it performs. With some minor tweaking left to do in the next few days, it's done...and I like the paint job. I have the option to use it as is, or wrap different coverings around the tube...at my whim and preference.

At least it got cleaned....but no sale.

[Chicago Astronomer - Astro Joe]

C11 Modifications - Revisited a Year Later

June 2011

- PART 11 -

Raw assembleage...

The main tube is fitted together nicely, but I wanted to raw fit the accessories and see if they need adjustment or relocating...

Almost fully loaded, (sans the laser holder), I like the way it looks. It's over kill, with three finder scopes and a Rigel, but it doesn't mean that I will load all of the finder scopes at the same time...it's nice to have the option...

At first, when I slipped the 90mm scope rings on, they snagged on the dovetail plate...but just barely enough room to slip through...

Excellent!

The 60mm rings went on speedy fast and look great...

My neighbors stopped by to see what Joe was doing...and all exclaimed what a beautiful scope this is...

Doing a quick test at the Fisk Generator tower, I got decent images, but it was clear that I need collimation.... bias to the left of FOV.

Laika was of no help....

but the neighborhood girls like to come up and pet her....which is always good.

And a bonus...!

I finally found the missing astro table that went missing since last year. It was in the Losmandy tripod tote case.

In a bit, heading off to the lakefront with Chicago Astronomer bill to test the upgrades out and collimate.

Not a bad way to spend a Sunday evening....

[Chicago Astronomer - Astro Joe]

The collimation of the C11 became waaay off after this upgrade and mod project.

Stars were heavy comas and I had to investigate what was going on...meaning, removing the Corrector Plate and checking things out.

Full narrative and pics here on the successful steps taken for a working scope again:

astronomer.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=ATM&thread=3220&page=1

Back in service and ready for the eager urban astro masses...!

[mojocvh]

Great article Joe, after a layup I'm about to dive in myself, flocking and re greasing my 8" sct.

Dow Corning HVG is costly but I'm convinced that it's the way to go.

My Skanky C8 pic note running grease...and stuff on the primary that only shows under a Tronix 270 lumen UV biased hand torch [odd huh?]






Strange box from carrier?




Cert of conformity-cool!!







well packed indeed! However the 50g/2 oz tubes are about 2/3rds the length of the outer carton!! Glad I got two!

and boy is it a stiff grease-EXCELLENT!!

more to follow if that's OK?

Mo.